Barbarian Days by William Finnegan

Book review: Barbarian Days by William Finnegan The story of a life time of surfing provides a history of surfing over the last 50 or so years. By happenstance the author ended up in surfing meccas so fell into the world of surfing at a young age. He chronicles the changes in surfing from a fringe sport to really something mainstream and gentrified, as we tend to do with some many things on this planet. But he is still able to find those ‘endless summer’ moments, and weaving the story of surfing with his biography and his family creates a very pleasant reading experience.